http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/rss/ci_18213980
People ask me all the time what it's like to teach surfing day in and day out. It's hard to explain sometimes because it is so much more than just pushing somebody into their first wave. We deal with all sorts of people and it's great to see a newbie get hooked on surfing but what I feel we do the most at Hawaiian Fire is get people hooked on a lifestyle rather than just another activity. Each and everytime I take a vacation it always seems to be centered around being close to an ocean. For instance we just got back from New York at the beginning of April and although I had a good time in the city the ocean just kept calling my name. I had to see the Atlantic ocean no matter what even if I were to surf or not. So my wife and baby went one way on the subway while I went towards the ocean. It really is a trip to leave Manhattan underground and an hour later arrive at Rockaway Beach with the sun shinning down and not a sole on the beach but about 20 surfers out in perfect 3-4 foot offshore conditions. The outside air temp was about 36 and the water a brisk 42 degrees. I didn't bring any surf gear to NY because it really wasn't a surf trip but I tried my hardest to locate some gear from some NY friends but the timing was off and even the surfshops were closed half the day. I was itching so bad to get in the water but it just wasn't meant to be. I kept asking myself why I wanted to surf so bad when back home I get 78 degree crystal clear water all the time? It is like this no matter where I go.....weather it's in the cold northwest or the cold northeast I have to get in the water!!! My wife told me once "it must be like you have to refresh the soul e
very time you are by the ocean Kevin"! And you know what?? She's right!! Even on our way back from NY we stopped in San Diego and again...I needed to surf and I was going to surf no matter what! Thanks to some more friends in SD I got to surf fun 3-4 foot clean waves in 58 degree water. Guess what? I felt like a whole new person after the first surf session......I surfed 3 times in a matter of a day and a half. There's just something about being in the saltwater that clears your mind. Anyways I just thought this article was cool because I really feel when we teach somebody to surf for the first time we give them something more than just a day at the beach. We give them a whole new perspective on what it's like to be a surfer and how once it's in your blood you most likely will never get rid of it!! You will be called to the ocean time and time again no matter where you are and will long for the feeling of refreshing the soul by entrenching yourself in saltwater whether it is cold or warm it will not matter!!We hope that all of you that aren't surfers yet will get the chance to surf with Hawaiian Fire to experience what I have just written.
Aloha for now
Kevin
