Every so often, it's nice to take a break to check out surf spots around the world and to visit old friends and employees of Hawaiian Fire Surf School. We just returned from a highly anticipated trip to Bali, Indonesia, then on our way home we stopped in Tokyo for a few days. After watching tons of surf videos and hearing the stories of the amazing surf spots in Bali, we had to make surfing a priority while in Bali. Aside from the surf, we were told the massages are dirt cheap and the people were some of the friendliest people in the world. All this was true...and more.
Right when we arrived the headlines were that the convicted terrorists from the 2002 bombings were to be executed so a report was issued to all foreigners (us) to avoid Bali. We decided to stay out of the touristy spots in Kuta and spend most of our time searching for waves, starting with the south area called the Bukit Peninsula. For $15/night we found a home stay right near the entrance of the world famous surf break, Uluwatu, known for it's perfect left-hand, barreling waves. Although November is "low season", the lineup was packed with surfers from Australia, France, Spain and a few from Bali. The waves were perfect, 3 to 5' (Hawaiian scale of course), but nowhere else along that coast was breaking although we stopped to check out Padang Padang and the famous Dreamland Beach. We made some time to take our motorbikes (mopeds) to Uluwatu Temple which had amazing panoramic views of the steep ocean cliffs and crystal clear water below. Although it was beautiful, the path along the cliff is not maintained, like many places in Bali, so you had to be extremely careful that you don't slip down the cliff after getting shocked by a stray monkey jumping out of the bushes to steal your sunglasses.
The sweltering heat and the lack of air-conditioning at our place in Bukit prompted us to open our Lonely Planet Guide to see where else we could spend time in Bali. Most appealing at that time was the art and cultural center of Bali, Ubud, which is at a higher elevation and located in the middle of rice terraces. Since the reports said the swell was dropping, we decided to head to the mountains to see what Ubud was all about. Thanks to some great recommendations from friends who visited Ubud, we found a beautiful (air-conditioned) 10-room place called Bhanuswari Resort, complete with free transportation to town and a salt-water swimming pool to make us feel like we're near the ocean. Lined with rock carving and wood sculpture shop after shop, Ubud was truly an oasis after previously being in the bitter heat. An "expat" (foreigner) gathering place, you can find some of the best food, go on a Yoga retreat, take a batik course and even go on a rice paddy trek.
Since we don't have rice paddy's in Hawaii, Kevin took the opportunity to have Aris, a vivacious, young, smiley boy, take him through the rice terraces. The human-sized Komodo Dragon and the two snakes that slithered past him were the highlight of the trek.

After getting an overdose of art and culture, we decided to check out a nearby island called Nusa Lembongan where we heard there were some amazing surf breaks. We took a 30-minute speed-boat to Nusa Lembongan where we were greeted by Janu, who is the manager/greeter/front desk agent/concierge (you get the picture right). Since occupancy was low, he gave us the villa, which was large enough to play baseball in, and overlooked the whole bay, the famous volcano and all of the surf breaks in view. The beauty of this island had summed up all of the reasons for traveling the distance to go to Bali. This was truly the oasis. We spent the rest of the time here, taking a boat to the various surf breaks that were completely uncrowded, with the occasional group of local rippers. Thanks to Janu, we had an amazing time at Playgrounds. He took us to a ceremony at his village, dressed us up in traditional attire and explained to us that this ceremony was for the highest caste on the island. Janu also explained to us the main industry on the island is seaweed for things like cosmetics and food. We spent many of our days watching the workers tend to their seaweed patches at low tide.



Eventually, our time expired in Bali, so we packed our bags and took the red-eye to Narita International Airport. At 9 degrees Celsius, the weather was a refreshing break. Bundled up in our coats and jeans, we arrived in Akasaka and ate some sashimi and udon immediately upon arrival. If we lost any weight in Bali, we regained all of it in Japan where the food is amazing!
Our agenda was packed. We got to hang out with Hawaiian Fire surf instructor Seiji Obata, who is currently living in Chiba and trying to find a way to come back and live in Hawaii. We were also invited to a home-cooked dinner at Miwa-san's house where we got to meet is fiancee turned wife, Chie, who is an outstanding cook.

After shopping in Shibuya and Harajuku, we were invited by our Hawaiian Fire Surf School regulars, Kohsei & Kohdai (and Mom & Dad) to a feast of Korean-style yakiniku at a small restaurant in Daimon. After we got lost at our connecting spot at the subway station in Roppongi, we made it to Daimon where Kohdai and his dad, Yoshi, met us at the station at took us down an inconspicuous alley to his friend's restaurant.


We are truly grateful for our customers and friends from around the world. We value each and every one of your friendships and are happy that we are able to keep in touch and enjoy each other's company when we travel.

Now that we're back in Hawaii, it's great to be back to the beach to meet more customers and to be here to say what's up to the regulars. To us, it's not just a surf lesson, but an experience that we can all take with us where ever we go. We hope that we will see all of the wonderful people we met in Bali soon, especially Janu, Gusti, Dewi, Aris, Bobby.... And we look forward to Seiji visiting us in Hawaii in February, and Kohdai & Kohsei coming this summer.
The surf here in Hawaii is pretty small today, but it's always nice to paddle out and enjoy the clean water and blue sky.
Also, a quick shout out to Ozz, who is in Manila right now, doing some research perhaps for the Earthtrot Project. See you soon!












